Driving into Phnom Penh (PP), we were struck by the obvious differences from Siem Reap. In SR, no buildings can exceed 4 stories – nothing can be higher than Angkor Wat. In PP, there are many high rise buildings. Also, modernization is much more apparent and the city appears more affluent.

The traffic in PP is just as chaotic as in SR. Motorcycles and scooters are everywhere, intermingled with many cars and Tuks Tuks. We are unsure what the purpose of stop signs would be, as no one stops. They slow down and adeptly manoeuvre around each other. In PP, there are a few traffic lights and the traffic does obey these.

Our hotel of choice was the Chaiya Palace. This hotel was opened just eight months ago and we were quite impressed. Once again, friendly, helpful staff were everywhere. We ended the day enjoying the lights of the city from the hotel rooftop bar.

After a nice breakfast at the hotel the next day, we set out to walk a bit. We strolled through Wat Botum Park. The Cambodian-Vietnamese Friendship Monument has sandstone figures of a Khmer woman holding a baby, flanked by two armed Vietnamese soldiers. This monument honours the Vietnamese liberation of Phenom Penh from the Khmer Rouge in January 1979.

We admired the gates of Wat Botum – one of the five original monasteries founded in 1442. The present structure was built in 1937.

Some interesting facts about the gold stupa.

While in front of Wat Botum, we were approached by one of the ever present Tuk Tuk drivers asking if we were interested in a tour to some of the places that he knew wouldn’t be covered by the city tour we had booked for the next day – he knows his tours as he was right. We decided that his pitch was good and it was too hot to wander so we hopped in his Tuk Tuk.

Tom started the tour by stopping at Independence Square, featuring the Independence Monument (or Victory Monument). This dark-red sandstone tower was built to commemorate independence from the French in 1953. It now also serves as a cenotaph for the country’s war dead.

In the park just east of the Independence Monument is a statue of the Norodom Sihanouk. Sihanouk was twice king of Cambodia (1941–55 and 1993–2004) and also served as prime minister, head of state and president.

After viewing the monuments, Tom motored through the traffic and along the riverfront.

We crossed the Chroy Changva Bridge across Tonie Sap River. We stopped to observe the boat traffic on the river.

At the confluence of the Tonie Sap and Mekong Rivers, there is a community of boat dwelling families. These families have faced orders to relocate several times, but the community still appears to be settled in this locale. We observed from afar, not wanting to encroach on their daily life.

The Wat Sampov Treileak Temple is a Buddhist temple shaped like a boat. We were the only visitors when Tom dropped us here. Next to the temple were a number of paintings that we believe depicted life lessons from Buddha. The elderly lady who seemed to be the lone attendant invited Deb and I into the temple and tied a red thread around each of our wrists, telling us ‘lucky’.

Wat Kean Khleang, also known as the Golden Temple or Mongkol Serei Kien Khleang Pagoda, was our next stop. The large grounds feature a large pagoda and the original pagoda, along with a unique shrine by the river encasing a tree, and even a small Chinese temple. I haven’t been able to find out when the temple was constructed. The temple is somewhat ostentatious and over-the-top to our eyes. When it comes to gold paint, it’s clear they’ve spared no expense.

The interior of the main hall is decked out in colorful murals from floor to ceiling, as well as dozens of Buddha images.

Tucked in the southeastern corner of the temple grounds are a number of other structures, including the much older Mongkol Serei Kien Khleang pagoda.

We had a great couple of hours with Tom and his TukTuk – it was a fun way to see some sights away from the main tourist track.

To end the day, we had a refreshing swim in the rooftop pool, a lovely dinner and an evening walk in Wat Botum Park, where we watched children playing, locals cooking and eating and people strolling to enjoy the warm evening.

More later on our next two days in Phnom Penh!

Cheers,

Bev & Harvey