We took a day trip from Helsinki to Tallinn, Estonia. We caught the convenient Tallink ferry in the morning for a 2 hour crossing and a return trip in the evening. We found having 7 hours to wander around old … Continue reading
We took a day trip from Helsinki to Tallinn, Estonia. We caught the convenient Tallink ferry in the morning for a 2 hour crossing and a return trip in the evening. We found having 7 hours to wander around old … Continue reading
We are on another adventure of our long and winding journey!
To start the journey, my daughter Kristin, my niece Justine and I flew to Helsinki, Finland. We were there to partake of our favourite event – the World Figure Skating Championships. This is the 7th time we have been lucky enough to attend this event – and this is definitely the farthest we have travelled.
We flew on Icelandair. They were great. We changed planes in Reykjavik. As we actually walked on the tarmac AND Telus welcomed me to Iceland, I’m counting it as a country that I’ve visited.

I do hope to actually visit Iceland at some point in the future and explore the homeland of my maternal grandmother.
We arrived in Helsinki and after a torturous experience of carrying our luggage down a very, very long non-operating downward escalator, we hopped on a metro train to the Helsinki main railway station. From there, we caught Tram #3 to the apartment that we rented. We have rented a number of apartments in North America and Europe from VRBO and Airbnb – and my opinion of them has varied a bit. Unfortunately, this one is at the lower end of the scale. However, it did offer us more room than a hotel room would and really, we were mostly just there to sleep so it was fine. It’s even kind of grew on me as the days went by.

Our first couple of days in Helsinki were split between watching a few skating practices and seeing the sights.
The skating championships were held at the Hartwall Arena, which conveniently was only a brief walk and train ride away for us. Our 7 day metro passes served us well. Practices are always a great way to get into the spirit of the event and see how the skaters are looking leading up the competition.

On our first day of touring, we set out on our version of the Rick Steve’s Walking Tour of Helsinki, with Justine as our guide and Kristin as our photographer. We started in Market Square. I imagine this square next to the harbour is a bustling place in the summer, but this time of year, there were just a few hardy vendors. In the centre of the square sits Czarina’s Stone, with its double-headed eagle of Imperial Russia. This was the first public monument in Helsinki, erected in 1835 to honour the visit by Czar Nicholas I and Czarina Alexandra. Across the street from the harbour is Helsinki City Hall and Finland’s Presidential Palace.

We visited Market Hall where we had some delicious soup for lunch.

We climbed up to the Uspenski Orthodox Cathedral. This church was built for the Russian military in 1868 and now is actually Finnish Orthodox. The Cathedral was closed on Monday, but we returned on Tuesday to view the interior, rich with many images.

Crossing back by Market Square and approaching the Esplanade, we viewed the Havis Amanda fountain. When this statue was unveiled in 1908, the voluptuous figure was a bit racy for many of the townspeople, but it still stands and has become the symbol of Helsinki.

Rick’s tour led us away from the Esplanade to Senate Square. When Finland became a grand duchy of the Russian Empire, the czar commissioned a make-over of this square, resulting in the finest Neoclassical square in Europe. Towering over the square is the Lutheran Cathedral. In stark contrast to the highly decorated Uspenski Cathedral, the interior of this building finished in 1852, is austere and unadorned. The emphasis is obviously on the pulpit and the music from the massive organ.

In the centre of Senate Square is a statue honouring Russian Czar Alexander II. Although not that popular in Russia, he was well-liked by the Finns as he gave the country more autonomy. We returned to Senate Square the next day and after Harvey arrived and again climbed the impressive set of stairs to gaze upon the square and Czar Alexander.

Senate Square is surrounded by the Senate building, the University of Helsinki and the National Library. We visited the library, which claims to have the finest collection of Slavic books in the world.

We returned to wander down the Esplanade, bordered by Helsinki’s high-end shopping area.

A stop on Rick’s tour is the Stockmann Department Store. This is the biggest, best, and oldest department store in town. We were already familiar with this landmark as we had visited the Starbuck’s location, as well as the extensive food and wine store on the bottom floor of the store. Justine feels that she could live in the store. This continued to be our go-to store during our trip and on our final day in Helsinki, we experienced Hallut Paivat – which loosely translates to Crazy Days. The sale in the store was indeed crazy – so much so that there were 7 police vehicles parked outside. We are unsure if this was just crowd/traffic control or some sort of force against anyone considering causing damage.

On the corner next to Stockmann is the Three Blacksmiths statue – most say this statue celebrates human labor and shows the solid character of the Finnish people. We feel it shows that they are very brave – naked blacksmithing doesn’t sound fun!
We travelled through the Train Station every day. It’s a busy place with a very nice main hall, and four statues on the facade that symbolize peasant farmers with lamps coming into Helsinki.

The Kamppi Chapel of Silence is a tranquil stop on a tour of the bustling city centre. The tea-cup shaped wooden structure was opened in 2012 to provide a place to escape to a sense of tranquility. Although it’s technically a church, there are no services and it is open to anyone needing a pause in their day.

Travelling down the busy street of Mannerheim, we came across the Carl Gustafson Mannerheim statue – this Finnish hero led the Finns in resistance of the Soviet advances in both Finland’s Civil War for independence and WWII and later became Finland’s first postwar president.

We spent some time relaxing in the Musiikkitalo – the Helsinki Music Centre, a beautiful building with two-thirds of it underground. It is decorated inside and out with bold art and houses seven venues.

One afternoon, we stopped in at the Helsinki City Museum. This quirky museum offers an interesting look at the history of Helsinki and includes exhibits such as a time machine and virtual reality. Especially fun was the top floor – entirely devoted to smell. You are invited to relax on large cushions with noise-cancelling headphones, while you determine what the smell of the day is. It was very relaxing – we almost fell asleep!

Another interesting church in Helsinki is the Temppeliaukio Church – or the Church in a Rock. We weren’t able to visit the interior but found it interesting that the structure was blasted out of solid granite.
After a couple of days of sightseeing, we settled in to four solid days at the Arena. The venue was good, the organizers did a great job and the skating was for the most part exceptional! We were happy to see our Canadian skaters perform well and most especially, to see Kaetlyn Osmond (from Edmonton) claim the silver medal with teammate Gabrielle Daleman taking bronze. Two Canadian women on the world podium was something that has never happened before and came as a totally unexpected result – a great accomplishment for these two young stars. Of course, we were also very proud to sing O Canada when Tessa Virtue and Scott Moir claimed the world title in Ice Dance – a wonderful comeback for our favourite ice dancers, after a two year hiatus. The other World Champions – Yuzuru Hanyu, Evgenia Medvedeva and Sui & Han are amazing and their skates were magical to watch! There are always disappointments for some skaters at the championships and those tug at your heartstrings.


While we were at the World’s Gala, ending the skating week, Harvey arrived in Helsinki – ready for our vacation to begin! We gave him a quick tour of the major sites.

Then we spent a great afternoon at the Suomenlinna Fortress. This fortress was built on an island in the mid-1700s to guard Helsinki’s harbour and has served as a strategic fortress for three countries – Finland, Sweden and Russia. It’s now a popular park as well as being home to Finland’s Naval Academy. It’s interesting to stroll along the ramparts, above the bunkers and over the coastal rocks as well as to view the imposing cannons.


We enjoyed everything we ate in Helsinki – including the arena food (which was tasty and not terrifically overpriced). We has pizza & pasta at Leonardo’s Restorante and Bar –

Great burgers at Friends & Brgrs –

Comfort food at Zetor (described by Rick Steves as the Finnish answer to Cracker Barrel) –

Trendy seafood dishes at Memphis –

Pub Food at Cafe Bar 9 –

Rooftop drinks at the Hotel Sokos Torni –

One place we returned to a number of times was Cafe Roasberg – here we enjoyed coffee, sandwiches for lunch, quiche for brunch, and wine just for afternoon fun!

We also frequented Starbucks for our morning coffee/latte/tea and muffins/bagels/croissant.
That recaps our time in Helsinki.
Stay tuned for a look at our day trip to Tallinn, Estonia. And now we are off to Russia for a couple of days!
Cheers,
B&H

In my last blog, I promised to tell you a bit more about the Fortress of Louisbourg and our time in Halifax. I apologize for the delay – we came home and life as usual is busy. But as I … Continue reading
Let me tell you about Cape Breton – we loved it! Our time in Cape Breton started with a bit of an adventure. After flying to Halifax from St John’s and spending a day there (more on that in a … Continue reading
St John’s is one of the oldest cities in North America and Newfoundland’s primary port. We found it to be the perfect blend of modern sophisticated city and small historic town. We spent three nights at the Murray Premises Hotel, … Continue reading
In today’s blog, I would like to tell you about our explorations of the Northern Peninsula in Newfoundland. As I mentioned, we are staying in St Anthony at the Grenfell Heritage Inn and Suites. The hotel is located adjacent to … Continue reading
Harvey and I are spending two weeks on the east coast. We have started with a week ‘on the rock’ – in Newfoundland.
On Saturday, we flew to St John’s – a great Air Canada flight that touched down in Ottawa, but we didn’t even have to deplane. It’s a bit of a shock to have a 3 1/2 hour time change with what seemed like a relatively quick flight. Speaking of that, I’m sure you are aware that Newfoundland is the only area in North America with a half hour time zone difference. There are a number of other areas of the world with this quirky time, but did you know that there are some with a 15 minute difference?! That would be very strange!
We spent Saturday night at a new Holiday Inn Express, a stone’s throw from the airport – I would recommend this hotel if you happen to need one near the St John’s airport.
Sunday morning, we took off on the TransCanada Highway (known here as the TCH). We can now say we have been on both ends of the TCH, as well as most of it in between. We travelled over 600 km, arriving in Deer Lake to spend the night. The highway was great and there was some great scenery. In the St John’s area, we thought we wouldn’t be seeing much fall foliage as the majority of the trees were conifers. But this changed as we headed east. I think we may be a wee bit early for the height of the fall colours, and the colours are primarily yellow and orange, lacking the reds of the northeastern U.S. You may know that we are connoisseurs of fall foliage (right, Deb?), and this isn’t the best, but still pleasant to see.
We stopped in a couple of small villages and viewpoints and enjoyed the scenery. Here are some photos taken at Norman’s Cove and near Gambo (at Joey’s Lookout, named after Joey Smallwood).

We had a picnic lunch at Notre Dame Provincial Park. The park was closed for the year, but we thought it looked like it would be a great place to camp – however, it’s a bit of a drive from Stony Plain.

Deer Lake’s claim to fame is being the heart of the snowmobile world. They apparently have many miles of groomed trails in the winter. Great cuisine is not one of their high points, and we ended the day with dinner at Jungle Jim’s. To my surprise, the food was actually quite tasty, although the Sangria was more like tropical juice. 😦
Monday morning, we were on the road again, heading north on The Viking Trail. We entered Gros Morne National Park, stopping at the Visitor Centre for our park pass and some information. Many of the park attractions and activities closed for the season at some point in September, but we are here to see the area and aren’t concerned with the closures.
Gros Morne National Park is located on the west coast of Newfoundland. At 1,805 km², it is the second largest national park in Atlantic Canada. Shaped by colliding continents and grinding glaciers, Gros Morne’s ancient landscape is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The park is named for Newfoundland’s second-highest mountain peak (at 806 m or 2,644 ft), which looms over the park.

We checked out the community of Norris Point and Bonne Bay. This area looks like it would be quite the bustling tourist destination in the summer months. Now, it was a lovely village.
We travelled through Rocky Harbour and stopped at Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse. The light at this lighthouse was activated in 1898 and the exhibit shows details of life there over the years. The final lighthouse keeper retired in 1970, a year after automated equipment was installed.

Travelling north, we stopped in Cow Head and Parson’s Pond, where we paid homage to the homeland of Harvey’s work mate, Ted.

Speaking of Parson’s Pond, we have no idea what constitutes a pond in NL. What we would call a very large lake in Alberta is often called a pond here! Likewise, many ‘brooks’ would definitely be rivers in Alberta.
We stopped for lunch at the Arches Provincial Park. Here three natural arches have been formed by tidal forces. At low tide, you can walk under the arches – but you certainly wouldn’t have wanted to try that when we were there.

Our next stop along the way was at Port au Choix. This area is considered of the richest archeological finds in North America. Burial sites uncovered in the town in the 1960s & 70s provide evidence of its earliest settlers – from the Maritime Archaic Indians to the Groswater and Dorset Palaeoeskimos to the Recent Indians (ancestors of the Beothuks). It is a National Historic Site of Canada. The Visitor Centre is closed for the year, so we didn’t see any of the archeological findings.
However, we continued on the road to the Point Riche lighthouse, where we encountered one of the day’s highlights – a family of caribou! They were not phased at all by our presence and it was great to watch them grazing.

We travelled the rest of the way non-stop to our destination of St Anthony. Our journey today was ~425 kilometres. We are staying at the Grenfell Heritage Hotel. In my next post, I’ll tell you some of the Grenfell story and more about St Anthony.
Again, many of the area restaurants are closed for the season, but we were directed to one known for its home cooking. The grilled salmon and pan-fried cod were excellent!
By the way, the weather on Sunday was great – sunny and 16. Cooler on Monday – high of 6, mix of sun and the odd shower.
More later on our day today on the Northern Peninsula!
Cheers,
B & H
In the last two posts, I talked about our recent trip to St Louis and Kansas City, but I didn’t fill you in on the food and drink we encountered. Always a highlight of our travels, it was exceptionally so in these two cities!
Barbecue
Missouri is a stronghold of of barbecue and we visited the stalwarts of this cuisine in both cities. In St. Louis, Pappy’s Smokehouse is known as the home of the best Memphis style barbecue. We had loved it on our visit in 2012 and it was equally as delicious on this visit! The ribs are smoky and the sauces vary from sweet to spicy – they are amazing.
In Kansas City, we tried two iconic offerings. Arthur Bryant’s was founded in the early 1920’s and is considered by many to be the most famous barbecue restaurant in the U.S. Again, the ribs had that smoky, fall-off-the-bone characteristic and the sauce, tasting of vinegar and paprika, was excellent. The atmosphere was down-home, with the floor just a bit slick from the grease in the air!
Our second excursion in KC was to LC’s Bar-B-Que. This small, one-room joint, in a rather sketchy location, is known for its ‘burnt-ends’ and they did not disappoint! As with the other two barbecue restaurants we visited, the many testimonials to their excellent food were posted on the walls!
All three barbecue joints were excellent – but my personal award goes to Pappy’s. To me, their ribs are still the best!!
Other Restaurants of Note
We also enjoyed some excellent meals at:
We has some excellent stops for afternoon refreshments on this trip. The October special of pumpkin brew became our drink of choice and we had some great ones!
We also enjoyed a visit to the Boulevard Brewery in Kansas City, where we tried two flights featuring their many varied brews.
Our regular readers may recall our cultural guest blogger in Prague and Vienna, Debbie. Today, Debbie returns as our resident expert on coffee houses. We visited many on this trip – here is Debbie’s take on the coffee scene in SL and KC:
“Sure, St. Louis and Kansas City are known for beer, blues, and baseball, but who knew that they are home to a craft coffee culture where the local roaster shops outnumber the big green chain outlets? Pleasantly surprised, we were. You need to adjust your whole coffee-drinking experience. There are too many to review individually, so suffice it to say that if it ain’t pour over in front of your face, it ain’t coffee. And don’t be asking for dark or mild roast, the talk is of flavours, of boldness, of undertones. Don’t be asking for small, medium, or large either – pour overs are served in ounces and might magically appear in a mini carafe or a wine glass or a flask that you can pour into your cup at leisure. And the baristas, oh, the baristas! Not for here is the short-term-part-time-wait-till-I-go-back-to-school barista, for being a barista in a craft coffee house IS a career – a career with a passion, a passion for smells, flavours, and designs. It is a thing of beauty to watch a big, strapping, bearded man gently, ever so gently, slowly pour the steaming water over the grounds at a a precise pace measured by timer for perfection every time. And if you happen to order a milky delight (only whole milk, of course), it is a wondrous thing to watch his big hands pour and tip until the perfect picture emerges in soothing browns and milky whites before he gracefully hands you his work of art. You have probably figured out by now that there is no rush in craft coffee houses. Here, you are patient and when the moment arrives, and you have that lovely, warm, beautiful liquid in your hands and feel it permeate your physical body and mind, you sit back and read or ponder or engage in thoughtful conversation with whoever is near, for this, really, is an art gallery. Not to be completely outdone by the product itself, however, is the location and the sign on the door. Chances are you will be looking for an unpretentious hole in the wall with minimalistic furnishings and with a name that only hints at what wonders hide inside – Oddly Correct, Blueprint Coffee, Picasso’s and many undiscovered others. There might be food but the best ones just have a few nibbles because you are here for the shining star, the coffee. So, the next time you are in St. Louis or Kansas City, enjoy the beer, blues, and baseball but also venture into the world of craft coffee. It’s worth a special trip.”
Ah yes, it was a great trip filled with wonderful eats and drinks!
Cheers,
Bev & Harv
As I indicated in the last post, we recently vacationed in Missouri. You ask: Missouri? Why?
Well, for a while now, we have discussed visiting Kansas City to explore the B’s: barbecue, baseball, beer, blues…… And then Harvey decided it was time for another NASCAR race – and the timing was right to go to the race in KC. After a few days in St Louis, we hopped in our rental van and were down the road to KC. Oh – another reason – one of my bucket list items is to visit all 50 U.S. states. I had 3 left – Kentucky, Oklahoma and Kansas. The Kansas Speedway is in Kansas – Check! Only 2 to go!
We had 4 days in KC – 3 to explore and one dedicated to the race. We were pleased to find there was lots to see and do. Here are some of our highlights:
Fountains
Kansas City has more than 200 fountains, which is more than any city in the world except Rome. We lost count but think we saw about 30. There are maps of the fountains available and it would be a fun way to spend a day (Harvey thinks not). The majority of the fountains we noted were spouting blue water in support of the Royals!
America Jazz Museum and the Negro Leagues Baseball Museum
These two museums are housed in the same building in the historic 18th & Vine Jazz District.
The American Jazz Museum was opened in 1997 and features the sights and sounds of jazz through interactive exhibits and films. It was very interesting to view the exhibits and learn interesting facts about jazz music and artists. The multiple ‘audio stations’ enhanced the experience. You can learn more about this museum at: http://americanjazzmuseum.org/about-us/#sthash.kl2tgoQl.dpuf

The museum also includes the Blue Room Jazz Club, which offers live music nightly. We didn’t make it back in the evening this trip, but would plan this in a future trip.
The Negro Leagues Baseball Museum is dedicated to preserving the history of African-American baseball and does a great job of this using exhibits, photos and film. We found it very interesting and informative.
Downtown Kansas City
We enjoyed visiting the City Market, the Union Station and the WWI Liberty Memorial.
Since 1857, the City Market has been one of the largest public farmers’ markets in the Midwest. In an open-air format, the market offers an eclectic mix of dining, shopping, entertainment and attractions.
The Union Station served rail traffic in KC from 1914 – 1985. In 1999, the refurbished station reopened with public attractions and in 2002, it once again became an active train station, servicing Amtrak public transportation.
The Liberty Memorial, dedicated on November 11, 1926, honours the men and women who served in WWI and is located at the National World War I Museum. We didn’t visit the museum on this trip – another item for a future trip. 
Further Afield in KC
One afternoon, we took a trip to the southern suburb of Overland Park to the Museum at Prairiefire. This museum is a natural history museum and has a partnership with the American Museum of Natural History in New York. It looked very interesting from peering in the windows because unfortunately it was closed when we arrived. However, the trip was not wasted as the outside of the building is spectacular on its own!
We also took a trip past Kaufman Stadium as the KC Royals were playing our Blue Jays. We had looked at getting tickets but the only available were single tickets at ridiculous prices, so we watched the games at various venues. The stadium itself is situated right next to the freeway and it was quite a site to see the masses of blue (for the Royals) in the stands.
One morning while Debbie and Larry were on a walk near our hotel, they came across the American Truck Historical Society. They went in and decided that Harvey must see this, so we stopped in for a visit later that morning. This society is dedicated to the collection and preservation of the history of trucks, the trucking industry, and its pioneers. The building contained some interesting memorabilia, but it serves most prominently as an archive of literature surrounding the trucking industry – brochures, manuals, newspaper ads and articles – anything to do with trucks. The readers who know Harvey well, will know of his passion for automobile literature and thus, he was fascinated with this collection. He could have spent hours perusing the items, but in deference to his travelling partners, he just took a brief look around, bonded with the staff, and committed to spending a day there if we were to return to KC.
The Race
It is difficult to describe a NASCAR race to anyone who has never attended one. It is a spectacle like none other that I have ever been to, and I’ve attended major league baseball, football, basketball and hockey games, as well as international soccer and skating events. NASCAR fans are a breed of their own – an eclectic mix of car lovers, good old boys and wide-eyed newcomers – 70,000 of them at this race. The camping and tailgating is crazy and the smoke and aroma of barbecue hangs in the air. It’s hard to imagine that watching 43 cars drive in circles 267 times around a 1.5 mile track could be so enthralling. It is not a social event while the race is going on – it’s too loud to hear (and you need earplugs when you aren’t wearing the scanner headphones) – so interaction consists of pointing and pantomime. It really is something that anyone who enjoys cars, racing, big events or just people watching should do at least once!
As I mentioned in my St. Louis post, we tried out a number of local restaurants, bars and coffee houses. Stay tuned for the details on those in St. Louis and Kansas City soon.
Kansas City was a fun place to visit and as mentioned, there are a lot more things we would love to do on a return trip.
Cheers,
Bev & Harv
A couple of weeks ago, we took a trip to St. Louis and Kansas City with our traveling companions, Larry & Debbie. In this blog entry, I’d like to tell you some of the highlights of our four days in St. Louis, the Gateway to the West.
Harvey and I had visited St. Louis in the summer of 2012 – but only for two nights and in the midst of a major heat wave – so we really hadn’t done much exploring, other than the major tourist sites – the famous Arch and the Anheuser-Busch brewery. This trip, we had four days to get to know the city. Our expert trip planner, Debbie, had done excellent research and we travelled about the city like native St. Louisans (really, that’s what they are called).
Our hotel was located near the airport and had the most friendly staff I have ever encountered in a mainstream hotel. By the time we left, we were hugging them good-bye! We used the MetroLink light rail train to travel into the city core for the first couple of days. This was a very efficient travel mode – even on the evening train when the driver announced that the train was ‘defective’ and we crawled into the last stop at the airport!
We toured most of the major neighbourhoods in St. Louis. Here’s a recap:
Downtown St. Louis
The skyline of downtown St. Louis is dominated by the Gateway Arch. Standing 630 feet tall, the Arch is the tallest man-made monument in the U.S. and is celebrating 50 years in 2015. The grounds of the Arch are currently undergoing a major renovation, which is expected to be completed in Spring 2017.
Nearby is Laclede’s Landing, which combines rich St. Louis history with modern entertainment. Generally you can stroll along the riverfront, but access is limited at this time due to the major construction surrounding the Arch.

The “new” Busch Stadium was opened in 2006 and is home to the St. Louis Cardinals. It looks like it would be a great place to watch a ballgame!

Directly adjacent to the stadium is Ballpark Village. This entertainment complex actually occupies the area where the “old” Busch Stadium was located. We stopped in for a delightful lunch at the Budweiser Brewhouse and while there, were able to watch a live interview with Bob Gibson. Larry was especially pleased with this – as he was the only one of the four of us who actually knew who Bob Gibson was. Bob is a retired baseball pitcher who played 17 seasons in Major League Baseball for the St. Louis Cardinals and holds a significant place in the team history. Larry apparently has a couple of his baseball cards in his collection. Despite the ignorance of the rest of us, we all thoroughly enjoyed listening to the interview of this man, who is nearing 80 year of age and was very informative and entertaining.

Also located nearby are the Scottrade Center, where the St. Louis Blues play our game, and the Edwards Jones Dome, where the Rams tackle football.
We wondered through the Citygarden, a vibrant and serene blending of lush plantings and internationally renowned sculptures with delights of water, stone, architecture and design.
We also stopped in at Union Station. This National Historic Landmark was once the world’s largest and busiest train station but was converted in the early 1980s into a hotel, shopping center, and entertainment complex and today, only serves local rail (MetroLink) transit passengers.
Forest Park
Forest Park occupies 1,293 acres in the center of the St. Louis and is the seventh largest urban park in the United States. It contains St. Louis’ major museums – the Saint Louis Art Museum and the Missouri History Museum – as well as the Saint Louis Science Center, Saint Louis Zoo, and The Muny, which is the country’s biggest outdoor theatre. It was a lovely spot for a lengthy stroll, despite a brief rain shower which sent us scurrying for cover under a tree.
Perched on the eastern edge of Forest Park and over a century old, the chic Central West End is full of charming sidewalk cafés, galleries, antique shops, restaurants, boutiques and pubs. It’s a little European, a little New York and totally St. Louis. The Cathedral Basilica of Saint Louis was completed in 1914 and is the mother church of the Archdiocese of St. Louis. The World Chess Hall of Fame is also located in the Central West End. We enjoyed a great pumpkin brew at one of the many local establishments!
Grand Center
Grand Center serves as the cultural hub of the region, and is home to many theaters, with their neon signs lighting up the street in the evening. 
Lafayette Square
This neighborhood boasts an impressive collection of beautiful Victorian homes and could be described as ‘urban chic.’ We enjoyed checking out the exterior grandeur of many of these homes.
Soulard
The city’s oldest neighbourhood exhibits a leisurely pace and an appreciation of days gone by. The historic streets are lined with red brick townhomes that house live music clubs and unique restaurants. We walked to Soulard to experience their annual Oktoberfest. While sipping on the ever present ‘Bud’, we enjoyed a variety of live music on three separate stages – the oldest Blues band in St. Louis, a traditional German ‘oompah’ band and an interesting classic rock polka band. 
The Hill
The Hill is the quintessential “Little Italy” neighbourhood. Baseball’s Yogi Berra and Joe Garagiola grew up here, and today it maintains a traditional collection of authentic Italian bakeries, grocery stores, restaurants and mom-and-pop trattorias.
Everything is colorful here – even the fire hydrants are painted red, white and green. Its epicenter is one intersection that sums it up perfectly, with St. Ambrose Catholic Church on one corner, an Italian bakery/restaurant on another, an import shop across the street, and a neighborhood tavern/bocce garden on the fourth corner.
We enjoyed a coffee house, an corner Italian sandwich shop and a lovely dinner (but more on that later).
The area is nicknamed “The Loop”after an old streetcar turnaround and is the original home to Chuck Berry. The highlight of The Loop is Delmar Boulevard, an eclectic main drag lined with an array of ethnic and American restaurants, music clubs, coffee shops, vintage clothing stores and boutiques. It’s an easy place to spend a full day exploring shops that offer everything from tattoos and piercings to books and records. Larry certainly spent considerable time checking out the records, but he didn’t seem to want to follow through his suggestion that we stop at a tattoo shop. 
Bordering The Loop is University City:
University City was founded by publisher Edward Gardner Lewis, who began developing the location in 1903 around his publishing complex for Woman’s Magazine and Woman’s Farm Journal. A number of historic buildings, including the beautiful City Hall, are mixed in with the century old homes, some of which are lovely and some which require some modern TLC.
Webster Groves is a fashionable neighbourhood with cozy restaurants, boutiques and century-old homes, more than 300 which are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. We wandered for a while, stopped in for an afternoon refreshment and drove around the tree-lined streets to view the exteriors of many of the beautiful homes.
We enjoyed just wandering around the areas and learning about St. Louis. It is an interesting city that is currently dealing with some societal challenges, not the least of which is a rising murder rate. I certainly don’t want to imply that we ever felt unsafe as the murders are definitely concentrated in specific areas and specific demographics. We found interesting and enlightening articles about this issue in a local publication, the Riverfront Times. If you are interested in reading more – http://www.riverfronttimes.com/newsblog/2015/10/01/st-louis-has-the-highest-murder-rate-in-the-nation and http://www.riverfronttimes.com/newsblog/2015/10/07/st-louis-murder-map-tracks-killing-by-neighborhood .
As always, we tried out a number of local restaurants, bars and coffee houses. Stay tune for the details on those in St. Louis and Kansas City soon, as well as a post about our days in Kansas City.
Cheers,
Bev & Harv